It is not too late to get to the topic. After finishing today’s Basel Watch Fair schedule, I want to share three things with you players. It is very coincident that they are all related to the chronograph (again, the time is limited, the official news materials have not yet been consulted, and details after returning home talk).
The first thing was about Breitling and Tudor. I mentioned in yesterday’s article that Tudor’s new MT5813 chronograph movement is related to Breitling. Today, we got official news from the brand.
The news I learned before is indeed true. Tudor’s new MT5813 movement is from Breitling. Breitling provided the self-produced B01 movement to Tudor, which was used after a certain degree of independent decoration. At the same time, in exchange, Tudor provided the self-produced MT5621 / 5601 movement to Breitling. Breitling slightly modified the movement from Tudor and added some Breitling brand attributes to use. Some people think that the movement of Tudor and Breitling movements is a strong joint action. Breitling provides its self-winding chronograph movement to Tudor, and Tudor provides the latest three-pin automatic winding movement to Breitling, which is mutually beneficial. At the same time, there are more points that directly point out that from a deeper perspective, the movement of Tudor and Breitling movements is very conducive to the digestion of inventory by the two. At the same time ensuring a higher output can also further reduce costs. According to my current understanding (not official news, for reference only), the price of Tudor chronograph using MT5813 chronograph movement (ie Tudor version B01 chronograph movement) is only half of Breitling B01 chronograph. This means that we can spend less money to get a higher-level automatic chronograph movement from Tudor. In other words, we can get Rolex-grade movements for Tudor’s money.
Breitling using Tudor MT5621 / 5601 movement.
Behind the Tudor and Breitling interchangeable movements, another rumor that was once circulated in the folks was also confirmed, that is, the relationship between the Breitling B01 movement and the Rolex 4130 movement. After Rolex launched the 4130 chronograph movement, Breitling took away the entire Rolex 4130 development team. And based on Rolex 4130, we need to develop a better Breitling movement than 4130, and this movement is Breitling 01. So I said earlier that spending Tudor money to buy Rolex-grade movements is why. The facts also prove that Breitling B01 movement does exist some beyond Rolex 4130. The most obvious evidence is that Breitling has developed a series of derivative functions based on B01. Including two places, world time and so on. Today, I see Breitling’s new chronograph chronograph movement launched on the B01 chronograph movement. We know that most of the previous automatic chronograph chronograph movements were modified with 7750. The high-end automatic chronograph movement has always been a blank. Breitling filled the gap with the chronograph movement developed by B01. From this example, we can see that Breitling had great potential for the B01 movement when it developed the B01 movement. Interestingly, after going through Rolex to Breitling, Breitling to Tudor, this movement returned to the original place (Tuodu is under the Rolex Group). Therefore, players can look forward to and pay attention to the Tudor with Breitling movement, and also look forward to and pay attention to the Breitling with Tudor movement.
Breitling chronograph developed on the basis of B01.
The second thing is about Glashütte Original. Glashütte Original This year, in addition to the new perpetual calendar based on the new 36 movement, another very important and very worthy of attention of all players is the new steel case 37 chronograph.
We know that there are two kinds of 37 chronographs originally launched by Glashütte. One is a round 37 chronograph with a gold case, and the other is a TV square 37 chronograph with a steel case. Some are niche). The gold case 37 chronograph is relatively expensive, and many players have a hard time playing. This year Glashütte introduced a new steel case 37 chronograph, the price has dropped significantly. The new steel case 37 chronograph is different from the gold case model. The steel case version shows strong sports characteristics. The hands and hour markers are luminous (this is a major symbol of sports). The size is 42 mm. Large calendar, dynamic storage and flyback, the decoration of the movement is very good, the price is about 120,000 (final price please go to the store to check). For GO-level chronometers, I think this price is more reasonable. The news I got two days ago is that the price of Rolex ceramic circle Daytona is now around RMB 117,000. The original brand positioning of Glashütte is still higher than Rolex. Steel case 37 chronograph price is not bad. Those who like GO and interested players can pay attention to it later.
Glashütte’s original steel case version 37 chronograph. From the night disc we can see that the steel case version is very sporty.
Glashütte Original 37 Automatic Chronograph Movement
The third watch comes from Zenith. The reason why I am in a hurry to show you this watch is that it is a complicated chronograph that is unlimited, and the price is very good, you can buy it.
We know that Tag Heuer has previously launched 1/100 second chronographs, 1/1000 second chronographs and 1/2000 second chronographs. In fact, the technical display significance of these watches far exceeds the actual sales value. Zenith applied a set of mature 1/100 second ultra-high frequency timing technology to El Primero this year, and launched Defy El Primero 21, a 1/100 second chronograph (Everyone knows that the regular version of El Primero is 1/100 10 seconds). The 1/100 second Defy El Primero 21 chronograph uses a ‘perfect version’ of the dual-chain timing system, which is exactly the same system as the previous Tag Heuer 1/100 second chronograph. This system has a wheel train for travel time and a system for timing. Each system has independent escapement and balance wheel and barrel. The clockwork of the timing section can provide 50 minutes of power and support 50 minutes. Very convenient is that the Zenith version of the 1/100 second system is also automatically wound. A five-pointed star-shaped automatic top is wound in two directions, one direction is to wind the time gear, and the other is to time the timing gear. You usually wear a watch without intervention. When winding manually, winding the crown up will wind the chronograph wheel, and turning the crown down will wind the clock. The power display on the dial shows the power of the timing wheel train. Of course, when we start the chronograph, the chronograph second hand does not make one revolution in one minute, but one revolution in one second and 60 revolutions in one minute. The technical properties and fun of playing are very high. Under normal circumstances, this kind of chronograph is often more meaningful, but when Zenith, this 1/100 second Defy El Primero 21 is completely available. First, there is no limit, and then there are 3 versions (including titanium shell and ceramic shell, each version has a different price), the price is about 70,000 yuan. I don’t think I need to say that everyone knows what 70,000 to 80,000 yuan represents. Omega’s ceramic supercharger costs more than 90,000, and Rolex Dayton takes 95,000, but the actual situation is more than 100,000. The Zenith’s 1 / 100-second chronograph using the dual-chain system is cheaper than them. I think this represents sincerity.
1/100 second Defy El Primero 21 chronograph with Zenith when using the dual chain system.
In the movement of the Defy El Primero 21 chronograph, we can actually see the two sets of wheels with the double-chain system running and timing separated.
Finally, I want to talk more about the hairspring of Zenith. This 1/100 second Defy El Primero 21 chronograph uses a new hairspring made of graphene-based composites. According to the information we have learned so far, Zenith’s new hairspring has an antimagnetic capability of more than 15,000 Gauss. Everyone, I think you all know the meaning behind this number.