Legend Of Time, The Five Main Forces Of Swiss Watchmaking

No one can control time, but time is the best witness of human development. The standardized production of machinery has brought about yield and efficiency, and the smart and hardworking Swiss have not given up their persistent pursuit of faith. Today, every watchmaker in the Swiss watch kingdom believes in ‘making time flow better’ and bets his life forever. He shows us with superb craftsmanship: behind the icy watch case, not only The rotating flywheel will also have extraordinary creativity and precision and exquisite watchmaking skills.

   The ever-changing time kingdom, whether it is the conflict of emerging industries or the turbulence of the social structure (see: the legendary time kingdom Switzerland and the indissoluble bond of timepieces), has not destroyed the Swiss watch industry for the elderly . Today, Richemont Group, Moët Hennessy-Louis Vuitton Group (LVMH), Swatch, Kering and independent watchmaking are the five backbones of Time Kingdom watch production They are united and communicate with each other. Although some groups are not Swiss companies, they are closely linked. They use channels and a clear division of labor to form an invisible production line, which transports about 70% of the fine watches in the world. However, in the eyes of watch friends, their ‘highness’ is mysterious. Let the editor of the watch house lead the friends into the middle of them and get a preliminary understanding of their situation.

Richemont Group The world’s second largest luxury goods company

    The development of Richemont Group is to be mentioned in 1988, which was established by independent South African billionaire Anton Rupert with headquarters in Switzerland. The company’s four business areas are: jewelry, watches, accessories and fashion. The 1990s was the golden age of Richemont. Its turnover was second only to LVMH Group, with annual sales of more than 4 billion U.S. dollars. According to Rupert, ‘the company is like standing in an elevator, you are standing It will continue to rise without moving. ‘But the good times did not last long. In 2002, Lifeng’s problems were piled up, operating costs were out of control, and funding problems in turn held back product innovation. Faced with numerous problems, Rupert began a radical reform. Under his leadership, the company reversed its dilemma within two years. Vacheron Constantin, Baume & Mercier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lange, Cartier, Panerai, IWC, Piaget, Van Cleef & Arpels, Montblanc and Roger Dolby are all watch brands under Richemont.

   As a large group specializing in luxury goods, in recent years, the high profits and development space of watches have attracted Richemont to increase its investment. Although it has the technical support of Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget and German Lange movements, it still meets Can’t meet its huge movement demand, some watch brands still have to rely on outsourced ETA and other basic movements to maintain production balance. With the popularization of watch knowledge, the movement has become a hot topic for consumers. The use of high-quality movements to drive the development of the industry has become a difficult problem for the group to solve. As a leading group, it is constantly working on movement technology. Pioneer, innovate, and consolidate your reputation to lay a solid foundation for high-end talent and technology.

LVMH world’s top luxury company

   When it comes to Swiss watches, Moët Hennessy-Louis Vuitton Group is definitely indispensable. Although it is a French company, it has an inextricable relationship with Swiss watchmaking. Many of its brands like Tag Heuer and Zenith Shi and Hublot all come from pure Swiss origin. LVMH’s full name, Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy Group, is a large-scale luxury production and marketing group that combines the top fashion and leather manufacturer Louis Vuitton and the first-class liquor producer Moët Hennessy. At present, the group ranks first in the world in terms of sales, market value, and influence.

   The brand stems from the merger of several well-known companies. In 1981, Moët & Chandon and Hennessy merged to form the Moët & Hennessy Wine Group. In 1987, the company merged with Louis Vuitton to form the LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët & Hennessy) Group, the predecessor of the current luxury empire. Subsequently, the group continued to expand, acquired many other luxury brands through capital operations, and gradually established a hegemonic position in the field of high-end goods manufacturing, becoming the world’s number one luxury goods group.

Hublot

Swatch Group The world’s largest watch manufacturer and distributor

 
   In 1983, when the Swiss watchmaking industry was facing the most severe crisis, Nicholas Hayek established the SMH (Swiss Corporation for Microelectronics and Watchmaking Industries Ltd) through the merger and acquisition of two closed watchmaking companies in Switzerland-ASUAG and SSIH. .—— Swiss Microelectronics Technology and Watch Co., Ltd.). Under his leadership, the company has become a global leader in watchmaking in just five years. In 1998, the company was renamed the Swatch Group.

Omega watches

   The name Swatch is often misunderstood as an abbreviation of the words ‘Swiss’ and ‘Watch’. However, the chairman of the Swatch Group, Nicholas G. Hayek confirmed that the initial Swatch stands for ‘Second Watch’, a new watch represented by leisure, entertainment and accessories. A new generation of watches introduced by the concept. The Swatch Group is currently the world’s largest watch manufacturer with several well-known watch brands, such as Swatch, Omega, Jacques Dro, original German Glashütte, as well as the tourbillon ancestral treasure, Tissot and Mido Are its well-known brands.

Breguet watch

   As the manufacturer and supplier of most Swiss watch heart blank movements, ETA SA is one of the brands under the name of Swatch. After being adjusted, polished, improved or modified, ETA movements are used in a large number of primary or secondary brands. It is among the intermediate watches. Among them, ETA2824-2, ETA 2892-A2 and ETA 7750 are the most widely used ETA movements. Not only is it used by its watch brands, but its movement is also used in watches of mid- to high-end brands such as IWC, Oris, TAG Heuer and Tudor.

Kering Group 3rd largest luxury goods group in the world

   The development of the Kering Group has begun since the official establishment of the French Pinault company founded by Francois Pinault. From wood trading to building materials, from being famous to being known to everyone, after many years of development, Kering Group has developed into the world’s third largest luxury goods group. In addition, its products are also involved in many industries such as sports and lifestyle products and retail. Currently Kering Group has many brands covering more than 120 countries around the world.

Girard Perregaux

   In July 2011, Kering controlled the Swiss watch company Suofeng Group, which owns the famous Girard Perregaux watches. (Before May 18, 2005, the former name was Binuo-Spring-Leidu Group, and later changed its name to PPR Group) Francois-Henri Pinault announced on March 22, 2013 that the group name was changed to Kering. The new name was approved at the annual general meeting on June 18, 2013. The main business direction of the Kering Group is: The luxury goods business consists of brands that design, manufacture and sell luxury products, especially in the leather goods, ready-to-wear, watches and jewelry sectors. Among them, watch brands include: Gucci, Athens and other famous brands.

Athens Watch

The Rise of the Fifth Force: Independent Watchmaking

Patek Philippe Watch

   In order to make the watch industry “slow down and improve the quality” from the mechanical assembly line, show the watch’s top mechanical technology. Fifth force isolated from these groups: Independent watchmaking is gradually entering people’s attention. Their watchmaking technology is the top part of the top, and it is also the top brands in the watch circle. Patek Philippe, Parmigiani, Frank Mueller, RM, etc. Some of these brands’ watch products can be described as ‘valuable.’ The reason is obvious. First, the number of such watches is limited and precious. Second, it has a unique personality and technology, which is very collectible. value.

Richard Mill Dragon and Tiger Watch

   Independent watchmakers are characterized by brand-new ideas in the movement and function of the movement, including unique designs of layout and appearance. Each person must independently design, process, assemble and adjust a watch or clock to complete a new concept of work. Therefore, independent Watchmakers’ craftsmanship standards are often higher than ordinary ‘industry standards’. Value is just one aspect of watchmaking craftsmanship. It is more a demonstration of watchmaker’s own efforts and expressing the compatibility of emotions and craftsmanship. It makes people feel that manipulator craftsmanship is more than just a cold time machine. The soulful work of watchmakers is full of special styles of watchmakers. Watch parts are polished by smart hands, and the workmanship and energy consumed are far beyond those of mechanized watches. I personally feel that their prices are too high, and they can only serve the super rich and the top upper class. It is more difficult to land.

Parmigiani

Summary: The formation of the five backbones also means that the Kingdom of Time is becoming more and more perfect. Although their commercial friction is not short, once the system is constituted, they will “perform their respective duties”. A watch may go through the hands of different brands, as mentioned earlier: FP often makes movements for top brands; Five watch factories under the Santos Family Foundation that produce parts for many other brands; ETA movements, which are the heart of a large number of Swiss watches, and more. As large as the watch as a whole, the screws in the movement are not necessarily produced by a factory. Although the three major groups are independent, they often communicate with each other. This division of labor has also promoted the development of Swiss watchmaking, making the Kingdom of Time a step forward, and the watchmaking industry has flourished and solidified.

Continue Reading →

Iwc Launches Pilot Series Father And Son Watch

Schaffhausen IWC brings a unique pilot father-son watch for men who value the family. Large pilot watches and Mark XVI pilot watches allow fathers and sons to show their personal qualities while emphasizing noble taste. These two extraordinary timepieces represent the precious affection of family members, marking the common hobby of precision machinery and aviation flight between father and son, passed down from generation to generation.
IWC launches Pilot’s father-son watch
    The relationship between father and son is indestructible, and you don’t need to say much to know the other person’s heart. Similarly, they cannot resist the ever-changing technology and sophisticated craftsmanship. Regarding this new pair of exquisite watches, Georges Kern, Chief Executive Officer of Schaffhausen IWC, said: ‘The most unique emotion is connected between father and son. Our latest pilot father and son watch is exactly A great choice for families who want to deepen their father and son’s feelings while proudly showing the father and son’s excellent taste to the outside world. ‘IWC is known for its men’s timepieces, which coincides with 2012 being the’ year of pilot watches ‘ Special edition father and son watches have been launched since 2008. If expressed in flight terms, they can be called ‘pilot’ and ‘copilot’ watches. In real life, pilots rely on each other and trust in the cockpit, and senior pilots will make the younger members of the team gradually take more responsibility. It’s like a father imparting vital personal qualities to his son, such as confidence, ambition, and responsibility. In many cases, his father’s passion for machinery and his pursuit of perfect skills will unknowingly affect the next generation.
    The awards party specially invited three world-leading watchmakers. Among them, former IWC Development and Design Director Mr. Kurt Klaus was also invited to attend. As the soul of the brand, he has great influence on the works created by IWC in the past 40 years Obliterated contribution.
   Over the years, Schaffhausen IWC pilot watches have been well received by the outside world. These timepieces represent a pioneering spirit, courage to fight, and courage to take risks. Schaffhausen IWC has designated 2012 as the ‘Year of the Pilot’s Watch’ and launched a number of high-profile works. Today, it is the pursuit of victory to launch the pilot’s father-son watch again. For his father, a large pilot watch is the best choice, with a built-in power reserve and date display. The case diameter is 46 mm, which is eye-catching in the same type of watch. In terms of watchmaking, this timepiece also breaks through the traditional norms: it is equipped with 51111 automatic movement, and is equipped with a spring-fixed turntable and a Pellerton pawl automatic winding system, with a power reserve of up to 168 hours. The mainspring has a longer power reserve, but the movement automatically stops every seven days to maintain a very high level of accuracy.
    Son is equipped with a smaller model, equipped with a 39 mm case and 30110 automatic movement, from a technical point of view, exactly the same as the Mark XVI pilot’s watch. This excellent timepiece offers a 42-hour power reserve, as well as time and date display. Water-resistant to 6 bar and sturdyly fitted with a glass watch that can withstand sudden pressure drops, this pilot’s watch is the son’s most trusted partner every day.
IWC Pilot’s Watch Father-Son
IWC Pilot’s Watch Father-Son
Heirloom
    It is a very sacred tradition to give precious timepieces to our most cherished people. Whether it’s expressing inner emotions, praising special contributions, or commemorating happy moments, watches are the most personal and intimate gifts. In this respect, the pilot’s father-son watch is sufficient to convey the clearest message. Both large pilot watches and Mark XVI pilot watches can be engraved with inscriptions, making them precious treasured heirlooms, passed down from generation to generation. The inner ring of the bottom case of both watches can be used for engraving names. This is not only a very elegant way to give gifts, but also a good way to avoid confusion: because the pilot father-son series also has a set of multiple watches For fathers to donate to multiple sons.

Continue Reading →

You Don’t Necessarily Understand The ‘inconspicuous’ Screws In Watches

Screws, we can see them everywhere. In mobile phones, computers, door locks, and power strips, there may be screws in the corners you can see. We have long been accustomed to them. Screws are obviously important. The more inconspicuous things tend to be more effective, it keeps the items we use intact and not loose. In watches, screws are more important. A watch, from the bracelet, lugs, case, buckle to the movement, there are more than a dozen types of screws. They have different shapes and act in different positions. Everything in the watch works perfectly.

   We often care about whether the watch is good-looking, the movement is beautiful, the function is unique, and the hand feels good, but there has been little attention to screws. After all, it is a basic accessory, which is inconspicuous and does not interact with you. But the old saying often says that in the watch, there are no useless parts. Although the screws are inconspicuous, they are very important. Today, let’s take a look at those screws in the watch.
Common screws

 
   In watches, the most common screws are the screws on the bracelet and the fixing screws on the back of the case. These two types of screws are relatively simple. Even the steel bracelet on the bracelet is often a steel shaft, not even the screws. Most of these screws are flat or cruciform, but because they are used in fine objects such as watches, most of them are very small screws, and the openings are very small. A special small screwdriver is required to unscrew them. It is easy to scratch. Once the nut is damaged, it is not easy to remove it.
More characteristic appearance screws
   Most watches use conventional screws, but more advanced brands will start to use screws with their own characteristics, on the one hand to make the fixing effect better, on the other hand, it is also due to quality control.

   I think the most representative is Richard Mille. Its spline screws are a big brand logo. Why do they use such screws? First of all, from an aesthetic point of view, petal screws are much more beautiful than ordinary screws. After all, Richard Mille’s petal screws are exposed outside, which will directly affect the aesthetics, so the conventional style is a bit too ordinary; second, As a key part for fixing the case, the quality of the screws is very important. The petal screws are evenly angled. When you use a special screwdriver to apply force, the force will evenly act on it, and it is not easy to damage the screws. Third, as a high-end watch, such a screw is actually a protective measure, because it is a brand-specific screw. If others want to open the watch, they need a special screwdriver, which greatly increases the opening. Difficulty, at least will not let some masters not good enough to open. Of course, as the pinnacle of mechanical engineering, Richard Miller generally uses Grade 5 titanium screws, which are high in hardness and difficult to process, and the cost is naturally very expensive. A screw costs hundreds or thousands of dollars. Often.

RM’s another screw

   Another representative screw is Audemars Piguet’s hexagonal screws. Those who are familiar with Audemars Piguet know that the Royal Oak series has several characteristics, one is an octagonal bezel, the other is an exposed screw, and it is very neat. The third is the dial plaid and so on. Of all the brands I know so far, only Audemars Piguet is neat. How is it neat? The groove of the screw is connected in a straight line and is also an octagon. So how did you do that? Most brands of external screws are screwed directly on the case, and one of Audemars Piguet’s screws has two parts, one is the long octagonal screw above, the tail is threaded, and the other is on the bottom cover. Screw base. When screwing in, the upper octagonal screw is directly put in, and the round base is screwed, so the opening direction of the screw can be regularly arranged. When you flip over the watch and look at the case back, you will find that in fact, the screws on the Audemars Piguet cover are disorderly. It is also worth noting that all the hexagonal screws of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak are white gold, polished and luxurious.

   Of course, there are exceptions to Audemars Piguet. Many Royal Oak offshore screws are not hexagonal and will use a more exaggerated structure. Compared to Royal Oak’s hexagonal screws, they need special tools to open because of the nut shape. It is also more difficult to make.

   Hublot is also the most commonly used brand of exposed screws. Audemars Piguet uses eight screws for its bezel, six screws for Hublot’s bezel. They are also round screws, and the nuts are H-shaped. They are generally made of titanium. It is also a very unique type of screw. This type of screw cannot be opened with a conventional screwdriver because the groove in the middle is not connected. If you want to open it, you must use a flat-blade screw with a groove in the middle to open it. The H-type screw fully echoes the Hublot brand “H ”Type brand logo.
Movement screws
   Compared to the screws of the appearance parts, the screws of the watch movement are much more important. After all, the space available for the watch appearance parts is much larger, and the movement itself is very narrow, so the space for the screws is naturally limited. of. At present, most of the screws of the movement are flat-head screws, because they are simple and applicable, and they are relatively space-saving to disassemble. But simplicity does not mean easy. The screws of the movement also bear part of the aesthetic requirements, so a true high-end watch will carefully polish the screws, chamfer and polish the edges and grooves of the screws. In view of the fact that the movement screws are very small, it is required to have high manufacturing accuracy requirements, but fraud is not cheap.

   The movement has several positions that require screws, one is a solid machine screw, one is a plywood screw, and one is a special functional screw. Fixing screws are screws that are used to fix the movement on the case. Generally, they are located at the edge of the movement and deeper. Plywood screws are mainly used to fix the splint to stabilize the gear position. Of course, I want to include those screws that fix various levers and separate gears, because their functions are the same. Of course, the specifications must be different due to different positions. . The main thing I want to say is functional screws. There are some common functional screws: counterweights and balance screws on balance wheels, and some screws on spinners.

   I have seen the smallest screw in the movement, which is almost invisible to the naked eye. You need to be very careful to see what it looks like. It is a screw applied to the balance wheel. Later, I accidentally fell to the ground. I looked for three hours. Didn’t find it again. I can hardly believe that such a small screw can be made, which is about 1/10 the size of a conventional movement screw. The screw-type balance wheel will be equipped with small screws, most of which are counterweight screws, which are fixed and generally do not need to be moved. Only a symmetrical pair or two pairs of screws are balanced screws, which can be adjusted in pairs. These The screw accuracy is very high, it can be said that it is the most important screw in the movement.

   The screws on the trimmer, taken out separately, are because they have their own functions, not just for fixing. We all know that the trimmer is to adjust the effective oscillation length of the hairspring to change the amplitude of the balance wheel, thereby adjusting the speed of travel. Most trimmers are equipped with adjustable screws, and the fast and slow needles are moved by rotating the screws to achieve the purpose according to the scale. The shape of the screw varies depending on the spinner.

   Some watches do not use conventional spinners. They are balanceless spring balance systems, but they still have a fine-tuning structure, but they do not adjust the balance spring and balance, but the balance plate, such as Rolex. The height of the balance wheel is adjusted by screws, so as to change the position of the balance shaft and form the adjustment of the balance spring system. Such screws are also used in a special way and are completely different from conventional screws.

   From a technical point of view, the screws in the movement are nothing more than polished and baked blue. As everyone knows, bake blue is our common blue steel screw process. The blue steel screw does not mean that a layer of blue substance is applied to the surface of the steel, but the steel is oxidized in the air by high temperature heating, and an oxide layer is formed on the surface. If it is too high or too low, it will not be blue. Of course, there are some application considerations when choosing this temperature, mainly to harden the screw again.
   Therefore, the screws in the watch are actually very particular about the quality of some inferior screws. The nuts may break when they are screwed, which is often referred to as ‘the screws are broken inside’, which is very troublesome to handle. Good brands are also very harsh on the quality of screws. There are several factories in Switzerland that provide screws for brands. One of them is provided by Parmigiani and belongs to the Santos family. They also make for many other high-end brands. Screws.

Continue Reading →

Overseas Vertical And Horizontal Series Thousands Of Changing Elegance

In 2016, Vacheron Constantin’s classic watch for global travelers, the Overseas Vertical and Horizontal series opened up a new horizon. The interchangeable strap / bracelet showcases the diverse styles of original work. Originally equipped with a leather strap, a rubber strap and a metal bracelet, the Overseas Vertical and Horizontal Series will present more fashionable and elegant colorful straps for the holiday season as a matching choice.

   These new strap colors meet the needs of the wearer in different occasions. This quick-changeable strap / bracelet and folding clasp do not require any tools to assist in replacement. It has a high degree of freedom and attractiveness, and is as strong and secure as any traditional fixed strap. / Bracelet. A variety of color designs denote a bold and stylish style. Vacheron Constantin always puts comfort first when developing easy-to-remove replacement devices to ensure that the watch fits the wrist perfectly.

   The trickiest part? Choose only one color from the colorful range to complement the original three straps / bracelets of the Overseas Crosswise Series: semi-matte dark gray, blue or camel for men; pink and light blue for women Colored or white. Overseas vertical and horizontal series models provide a variety of colors to meet different moods (or shapes)! Even rubber straps can be transformed like chameleons: blue for men and white for women.

   Adhering to the brand’s values ​​and high standards, Vacheron Constantin has put the same emphasis on the replaceable strap / bracelet and the details of the entire model. The polished inner corners of the curved metal forged surface brushed and polished bracelet outline a semi-Malta cross. The hand-stitched Mississippi alligator leather strap is lined with suede leather for a micro-hole effect. The surface of the rubber strap is not inferior either. Its pattern is inspired by the brand logo of Vacheron Constantin, which highlights the casual and elegant style of the Overseas Vertical and Horizontal series.

Easily removable straps / bracelets and this collection of colorful fashion choices will ensure you travel the world elegantly!

Continue Reading →

How Hot Is The Diving Watch?

In addition to all kinds of water ghosts not available in the market, we can also learn how hot the diving watches are now through the Geneva Watch Fair, the GPHG Geneva Watch Awards and the Basel Watch Fair. They are the biggest international events of the year in the watch industry. They used to be a window for watch fans to understand the popular trends of the watch industry. The Beibei series launched by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 2018 as a historical watch is also a diving watch in recent years. The Internet has made the world flatter and faster, and the two exhibitions and big prizes are also facing major changes in time and space. The effect of this traditional method of getting together to do big things has been challenged. The Swatch Group will start its own new watch launch conference in 2019. LVMH Group will also go to Dubai alone to release a new round of products in January 2020. Although its four major brands are determined to participate in Basel in May, they will continue to Hard to say. Over the years, many important brands have ceased to participate in the GPHG awards. However, fortunately, there are still many brands that attach more importance to it, and more and more international brands have come to participate. This activity can also maintain surface prosperity. Citizen sent ultra-precise quartz watches with an annual error of 1 second. Not long ago, GPHG announced the registration forms for 2019. There are 196 entries in total, which is similar to the previous 195 entries. The ‘Clock Watch Oscar’ has arrived In the 19th, the lineup still looks huge. Not surprisingly, on November 7, 2019, a jury of more than 30 watch industry experts from around the world will vote in Geneva to select the 19 best watches of the year. 01. The difference between the diving watch real fire and the Oscar film award is that the GPHG watch award settings are dynamically changed. Every year, some adjustments are made according to market feedback. In 2019, 14 registration categories were set, which is 2 more than the previous one. , Slight adjustment on classification attributes. Compared with the 2018 registration category, there are actually three changes in 2019, namely the ‘Iconic’ award, the ‘Diver’s’ award and the ‘Calendar and Astronomy’ award. ‘Iconic’ is a new item. Men’s watches and women’s watches can be selected for this ‘Idol’ award. The functions, materials, and prices are not limited. The key requirement is that they have been in existence for more than 25 years and have symbolic significance for the brand. It is not easy to add the Iconic Award in 2019. It is not easy to sell a product for a quarter century. Many watches of many brands on the market today are actually new works that follow the fashion trend; another On the other hand, brands must be influential in the industry, and they must be leading the way, otherwise how can they be called ‘Iconic’? The difficulty is attributed to the difficulty. In the past few decades, many excellent watches have precipitated on the market. Patek Philippe Nautilus, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Vacheron Constantin are all around the world, Rolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster, Cartier Tank, Panerai Luminor and other classics. One by one, this will be a very competitive award. But the ideal is very full and the reality is very skinny. Too many well-known brands did not come to participate in the GPHG awards, and some brands did not send these types of watches to participate in the award. In the end, there were only 10 ‘Iconic’ awards. We predict that the 6 shortlisted models should be: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Girard Perregaux GP, Longines Jialan, Tag Heuer Monaco, Zenith El Primero and Chopard Happy Sport. The ultra-thin Jialan series is one of the elegant Longines masterpieces. Based on the performance on the market today, the winner of the 2019 Iconic award should be Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The ‘Diver’s’ award, that is, the diving watch, is also very interesting. It cannot be regarded as a new establishment. It should be regarded as a change from the previous ‘sport watch’ award, and the scope has been narrowed. For example, the same popular pilot watch has been lost. The opportunity to sign up also fully proves how popular the diving sports watch market has been in the past two years. Watch fans should think of several popular diving watches such as Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Submersibles, Rolex Submariners and Sea Divers, Omega Seahorse 300 and Ocean Universe, Panerai. However, they did not come, and this award competition was not as eye-catching as expected. In the end, 13 models were registered, and most of them were relatively small. This will cause a lot of distress to the GPHG judges. Which 6 should be selected? Shortlisted? In 2019, the Diver’s Award was set up. From a market perspective, the final winner’s competition should be between 3 watches of Longines Concas, Seiko ‘Abalone Shell’ and Athens Pilot. However, Seiko dive watches won the best sports watch award last year, and there should be only two competitors. The ‘Calendar and Astronomy’ award is directly translated as ‘Calendar and Astronomy Watch’. Compared with 2018, it is a new item, but looking back at the history of GPHG, it is a return of calendar models. The award was a bit inexplicable last year. Calendars, annual calendars, perpetual calendars, moon phases and various astronomical indications are the origin of horological functions. It is also a huge branch in the field of watches today. It is reasonable to return. 02. Who is more interested in GPHG in 2019? The GPHG selection rules stipulate that a watch can only register for one award, but a brand can participate in a total of seven awards, so who is more enthusiastic about the ‘Oscar Awards in the watch industry’? Only one brand reached this number limit in 2019.It is the professional watch brand from LVMH Group-Zenith. El Primero’s 50th Anniversary Watch is presented with Iconic awards. Zenith has signed up for seven awards: ladies’ watches, men’s watches, men’s complication watches, Iconic, chronometers, chronographs and small hands. The purpose of the Geneva Watch Awards is to encourage innovation and promote the healthy development of the global watch industry, but the Swiss brand is the main player in the watch market today, and it is also obviously a major player in the GPHG. Today, most of the world-renowned watch brands belong to the four major luxury goods groups. From the perspective of the group, two different phenomena are exhibited: LVMH and Kering Group have higher enthusiasm, and Swatch and Richemont have only a few brands. The LVMH Group has 6 brands registered, and almost all brands under the watch and jewelry department have arrived: 6 outside Buddhism, Bvlgari registration, 2 Shangmei Paris, 3 Tag Heuer, 4 Hublot; belonging to The brand LV of the fashion leather goods department also registered for 4 awards. Bulgari’s selection of ladies’ complex functions table Kering Group is also actively participating in it: 5 models from Athens, 4 Girard Perregaux watches, and Gucci, a popular fashion brand, also sent 2 watches to the award. GP Girard Perregaux has participated in the Iconic Awards LVMH and Kering have performed aggressively in recent years, and it is reasonable to actively participate in GPHG. LV and Gucci both launched their own high-end jewellery products during the Paris High Week. At this time, the GPHG awards were “connected with each other”, and the battle for the king of luxury looks very good. Speaking of which, how can we not mention Chanel? This year’s GPHG, Chanel only registered for the selection of women’s watches and men’s watches, but the jewelry watches that have often participated in previous years did not register, which is incredible. Surprisingly, Audemars Piguet did not sign up for this often-finalized award, but at the beginning of the year SIHH released a new high-end jewelry watch Sapphire Orbe. The final entry for the Jewellery Watch Awards was only 7 pieces. Richemont Group has only three brands registered for GPHG this year. Van Cleef & Arpels has always participated in the evaluation of women’s watches, women’s complications and jewellery watches, Vacheron Constantin participated in the men’s complications watch and complex machinery awards, and IWC has 6 registrations. Vacheron Constantin’s Twin Beat watches selected for the complex mechanical function award This year, the Swatch Group is also three brands. Longines participated in three awards, radar participated in two, and Hamilton sent a retro chronograph to the Iconic Awards; other advanced Watchmaking brands have not returned. Hamilton retro-style chronograph Richemont and Swatch are big watchmakers. The former has 11 high-end watch brands, and the latter has 18 watch brands from entry to the top. Only a few brands are involved. It’s a worry. 03, GPHG’s peculiar function watches encourage horological innovation is a major purpose of GPHG, so the watches sent to participate in the award often have a lot of bright mechanical design, or technological innovation. In particular, the award for complex mechanical functions, Mechanical Exception, as described in the original text, many watch functions are unexpected and very cool. Fiyta Group’s high-end designer brand ‘Mu Yang Timepiece’ sent its King Sword series ‘Xuanyuan Sword’ watch launched at the Shenzhen Watch Fair 2019 to participate in the award. The Xuanyuanjian watch’s time indication function is very creative: the sword-shaped pointer in the center of the dial is the minute hand, and it rotates once in 60 minutes; whenever the minute hand sweeps past the 12 o’clock position, the sword-shaped hour marker on the outer edge of the dial will eject, indicating At the next hour, when the time indicator reaches 12:59, the sword-shaped time scales at 2 to 12 o’clock are all retracted, and the time scale at 1 o’clock is fixed. This feature was released by Mu Yang Timepieces at the Basel Show in early 2018. The original design has attracted a lot of attention. Last year, the name ‘King Arthur’ was inspired by the story of King Arthur and the 12 Knights of the Round Table in British history. This year’s Xuanyuan sword is inspired by the legend of the ancient Chinese emperor Huangdi. The metal carving on the dial, the short sword in the center of the dial and the Xuanyuan sword on the case back are all from traditional culture. What is quite interesting is that this year GPHG also has several watches. The time display method is the same as this Xuanyuan sword. The Dewitt Slide watch also participated in the complex mechanical function award. The center of the dial is a minute hand and a second hand, and the outer edge of the dial is a digital hour marker. The Slide model differs from the Xuanyuanjian watch’s dagger time scale from the inside out. The Slide’s digital time scale slides inward along the track from the outermost edge of the dial. The two watches that LV participated in the Women’s Complication Awards and Men’s Complication Awards are from the Tambour Spin Time Air series. Functionally, they are the same, but they are different in appearance. They are mechanically similar to the Xuanyuanjian and Slide watches. It’s very similar. The Tambour Spin Time Air series watch also displays the minutes through a pointer in the center of the dial, and the hours are indicated by the active time scale on the outermost edge of the dial. The difference is that the LV time scale is not a two-dimensional plane movement, but a three-dimensional rotation. When the minute hand slides past the 12 o’clock position, the previous time scale instantly turns 90 degrees, which is consistent with the display of other non-current hour scales, and the current time scale also instantly turns to the time indication surface. This three-dimensional rotating display time was a design launched ten years ago by LV, and it was called Tambour Spin Time. This year, the new model added Air to the back, which refers to the redesigned movement, the three-dimensional hour markers are hollowed out, and the front and back are lined with transparent sapphire. Looks like floating in the air. Of course, there are many interesting watches, as well as fish in troubled waters. There is no innovation in function and design, and even bare copying. The ‘jeweled water ghost’, like the one above, is a watch sent to the Challenge Awards. Although the dial is studded with cheap glass diamonds, it is still a Rolex ‘water ghost’. It’s a glimpse of how popular the diving watch market is. / end / Interview Notes of Lu Xi Join readers, please send name + occupation + WeChat to [email protected]

Continue Reading →