You Don’t Necessarily Understand The ‘inconspicuous’ Screws In Watches

Screws, we can see them everywhere. In mobile phones, computers, door locks, and power strips, there may be screws in the corners you can see. We have long been accustomed to them. Screws are obviously important. The more inconspicuous things tend to be more effective, it keeps the items we use intact and not loose. In watches, screws are more important. A watch, from the bracelet, lugs, case, buckle to the movement, there are more than a dozen types of screws. They have different shapes and act in different positions. Everything in the watch works perfectly.

   We often care about whether the watch is good-looking, the movement is beautiful, the function is unique, and the hand feels good, but there has been little attention to screws. After all, it is a basic accessory, which is inconspicuous and does not interact with you. But the old saying often says that in the watch, there are no useless parts. Although the screws are inconspicuous, they are very important. Today, let’s take a look at those screws in the watch.
Common screws

 
   In watches, the most common screws are the screws on the bracelet and the fixing screws on the back of the case. These two types of screws are relatively simple. Even the steel bracelet on the bracelet is often a steel shaft, not even the screws. Most of these screws are flat or cruciform, but because they are used in fine objects such as watches, most of them are very small screws, and the openings are very small. A special small screwdriver is required to unscrew them. It is easy to scratch. Once the nut is damaged, it is not easy to remove it.
More characteristic appearance screws
   Most watches use conventional screws, but more advanced brands will start to use screws with their own characteristics, on the one hand to make the fixing effect better, on the other hand, it is also due to quality control.

   I think the most representative is Richard Mille. Its spline screws are a big brand logo. Why do they use such screws? First of all, from an aesthetic point of view, petal screws are much more beautiful than ordinary screws. After all, Richard Mille’s petal screws are exposed outside, which will directly affect the aesthetics, so the conventional style is a bit too ordinary; second, As a key part for fixing the case, the quality of the screws is very important. The petal screws are evenly angled. When you use a special screwdriver to apply force, the force will evenly act on it, and it is not easy to damage the screws. Third, as a high-end watch, such a screw is actually a protective measure, because it is a brand-specific screw. If others want to open the watch, they need a special screwdriver, which greatly increases the opening. Difficulty, at least will not let some masters not good enough to open. Of course, as the pinnacle of mechanical engineering, Richard Miller generally uses Grade 5 titanium screws, which are high in hardness and difficult to process, and the cost is naturally very expensive. A screw costs hundreds or thousands of dollars. Often.

RM’s another screw

   Another representative screw is Audemars Piguet’s hexagonal screws. Those who are familiar with Audemars Piguet know that the Royal Oak series has several characteristics, one is an octagonal bezel, the other is an exposed screw, and it is very neat. The third is the dial plaid and so on. Of all the brands I know so far, only Audemars Piguet is neat. How is it neat? The groove of the screw is connected in a straight line and is also an octagon. So how did you do that? Most brands of external screws are screwed directly on the case, and one of Audemars Piguet’s screws has two parts, one is the long octagonal screw above, the tail is threaded, and the other is on the bottom cover. Screw base. When screwing in, the upper octagonal screw is directly put in, and the round base is screwed, so the opening direction of the screw can be regularly arranged. When you flip over the watch and look at the case back, you will find that in fact, the screws on the Audemars Piguet cover are disorderly. It is also worth noting that all the hexagonal screws of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak are white gold, polished and luxurious.

   Of course, there are exceptions to Audemars Piguet. Many Royal Oak offshore screws are not hexagonal and will use a more exaggerated structure. Compared to Royal Oak’s hexagonal screws, they need special tools to open because of the nut shape. It is also more difficult to make.

   Hublot is also the most commonly used brand of exposed screws. Audemars Piguet uses eight screws for its bezel, six screws for Hublot’s bezel. They are also round screws, and the nuts are H-shaped. They are generally made of titanium. It is also a very unique type of screw. This type of screw cannot be opened with a conventional screwdriver because the groove in the middle is not connected. If you want to open it, you must use a flat-blade screw with a groove in the middle to open it. The H-type screw fully echoes the Hublot brand “H ”Type brand logo.
Movement screws
   Compared to the screws of the appearance parts, the screws of the watch movement are much more important. After all, the space available for the watch appearance parts is much larger, and the movement itself is very narrow, so the space for the screws is naturally limited. of. At present, most of the screws of the movement are flat-head screws, because they are simple and applicable, and they are relatively space-saving to disassemble. But simplicity does not mean easy. The screws of the movement also bear part of the aesthetic requirements, so a true high-end watch will carefully polish the screws, chamfer and polish the edges and grooves of the screws. In view of the fact that the movement screws are very small, it is required to have high manufacturing accuracy requirements, but fraud is not cheap.

   The movement has several positions that require screws, one is a solid machine screw, one is a plywood screw, and one is a special functional screw. Fixing screws are screws that are used to fix the movement on the case. Generally, they are located at the edge of the movement and deeper. Plywood screws are mainly used to fix the splint to stabilize the gear position. Of course, I want to include those screws that fix various levers and separate gears, because their functions are the same. Of course, the specifications must be different due to different positions. . The main thing I want to say is functional screws. There are some common functional screws: counterweights and balance screws on balance wheels, and some screws on spinners.

   I have seen the smallest screw in the movement, which is almost invisible to the naked eye. You need to be very careful to see what it looks like. It is a screw applied to the balance wheel. Later, I accidentally fell to the ground. I looked for three hours. Didn’t find it again. I can hardly believe that such a small screw can be made, which is about 1/10 the size of a conventional movement screw. The screw-type balance wheel will be equipped with small screws, most of which are counterweight screws, which are fixed and generally do not need to be moved. Only a symmetrical pair or two pairs of screws are balanced screws, which can be adjusted in pairs. These The screw accuracy is very high, it can be said that it is the most important screw in the movement.

   The screws on the trimmer, taken out separately, are because they have their own functions, not just for fixing. We all know that the trimmer is to adjust the effective oscillation length of the hairspring to change the amplitude of the balance wheel, thereby adjusting the speed of travel. Most trimmers are equipped with adjustable screws, and the fast and slow needles are moved by rotating the screws to achieve the purpose according to the scale. The shape of the screw varies depending on the spinner.

   Some watches do not use conventional spinners. They are balanceless spring balance systems, but they still have a fine-tuning structure, but they do not adjust the balance spring and balance, but the balance plate, such as Rolex. The height of the balance wheel is adjusted by screws, so as to change the position of the balance shaft and form the adjustment of the balance spring system. Such screws are also used in a special way and are completely different from conventional screws.

   From a technical point of view, the screws in the movement are nothing more than polished and baked blue. As everyone knows, bake blue is our common blue steel screw process. The blue steel screw does not mean that a layer of blue substance is applied to the surface of the steel, but the steel is oxidized in the air by high temperature heating, and an oxide layer is formed on the surface. If it is too high or too low, it will not be blue. Of course, there are some application considerations when choosing this temperature, mainly to harden the screw again.
   Therefore, the screws in the watch are actually very particular about the quality of some inferior screws. The nuts may break when they are screwed, which is often referred to as ‘the screws are broken inside’, which is very troublesome to handle. Good brands are also very harsh on the quality of screws. There are several factories in Switzerland that provide screws for brands. One of them is provided by Parmigiani and belongs to the Santos family. They also make for many other high-end brands. Screws.

Overseas Vertical And Horizontal Series Thousands Of Changing Elegance

In 2016, Vacheron Constantin’s classic watch for global travelers, the Overseas Vertical and Horizontal series opened up a new horizon. The interchangeable strap / bracelet showcases the diverse styles of original work. Originally equipped with a leather strap, a rubber strap and a metal bracelet, the Overseas Vertical and Horizontal Series will present more fashionable and elegant colorful straps for the holiday season as a matching choice.

   These new strap colors meet the needs of the wearer in different occasions. This quick-changeable strap / bracelet and folding clasp do not require any tools to assist in replacement. It has a high degree of freedom and attractiveness, and is as strong and secure as any traditional fixed strap. / Bracelet. A variety of color designs denote a bold and stylish style. Vacheron Constantin always puts comfort first when developing easy-to-remove replacement devices to ensure that the watch fits the wrist perfectly.

   The trickiest part? Choose only one color from the colorful range to complement the original three straps / bracelets of the Overseas Crosswise Series: semi-matte dark gray, blue or camel for men; pink and light blue for women Colored or white. Overseas vertical and horizontal series models provide a variety of colors to meet different moods (or shapes)! Even rubber straps can be transformed like chameleons: blue for men and white for women.

   Adhering to the brand’s values ​​and high standards, Vacheron Constantin has put the same emphasis on the replaceable strap / bracelet and the details of the entire model. The polished inner corners of the curved metal forged surface brushed and polished bracelet outline a semi-Malta cross. The hand-stitched Mississippi alligator leather strap is lined with suede leather for a micro-hole effect. The surface of the rubber strap is not inferior either. Its pattern is inspired by the brand logo of Vacheron Constantin, which highlights the casual and elegant style of the Overseas Vertical and Horizontal series.

Easily removable straps / bracelets and this collection of colorful fashion choices will ensure you travel the world elegantly!

How Hot Is The Diving Watch?

In addition to all kinds of water ghosts not available in the market, we can also learn how hot the diving watches are now through the Geneva Watch Fair, the GPHG Geneva Watch Awards and the Basel Watch Fair. They are the biggest international events of the year in the watch industry. They used to be a window for watch fans to understand the popular trends of the watch industry. The Beibei series launched by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 2018 as a historical watch is also a diving watch in recent years. The Internet has made the world flatter and faster, and the two exhibitions and big prizes are also facing major changes in time and space. The effect of this traditional method of getting together to do big things has been challenged. The Swatch Group will start its own new watch launch conference in 2019. LVMH Group will also go to Dubai alone to release a new round of products in January 2020. Although its four major brands are determined to participate in Basel in May, they will continue to Hard to say. Over the years, many important brands have ceased to participate in the GPHG awards. However, fortunately, there are still many brands that attach more importance to it, and more and more international brands have come to participate. This activity can also maintain surface prosperity. Citizen sent ultra-precise quartz watches with an annual error of 1 second. Not long ago, GPHG announced the registration forms for 2019. There are 196 entries in total, which is similar to the previous 195 entries. The ‘Clock Watch Oscar’ has arrived In the 19th, the lineup still looks huge. Not surprisingly, on November 7, 2019, a jury of more than 30 watch industry experts from around the world will vote in Geneva to select the 19 best watches of the year. 01. The difference between the diving watch real fire and the Oscar film award is that the GPHG watch award settings are dynamically changed. Every year, some adjustments are made according to market feedback. In 2019, 14 registration categories were set, which is 2 more than the previous one. , Slight adjustment on classification attributes. Compared with the 2018 registration category, there are actually three changes in 2019, namely the ‘Iconic’ award, the ‘Diver’s’ award and the ‘Calendar and Astronomy’ award. ‘Iconic’ is a new item. Men’s watches and women’s watches can be selected for this ‘Idol’ award. The functions, materials, and prices are not limited. The key requirement is that they have been in existence for more than 25 years and have symbolic significance for the brand. It is not easy to add the Iconic Award in 2019. It is not easy to sell a product for a quarter century. Many watches of many brands on the market today are actually new works that follow the fashion trend; another On the other hand, brands must be influential in the industry, and they must be leading the way, otherwise how can they be called ‘Iconic’? The difficulty is attributed to the difficulty. In the past few decades, many excellent watches have precipitated on the market. Patek Philippe Nautilus, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Vacheron Constantin are all around the world, Rolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster, Cartier Tank, Panerai Luminor and other classics. One by one, this will be a very competitive award. But the ideal is very full and the reality is very skinny. Too many well-known brands did not come to participate in the GPHG awards, and some brands did not send these types of watches to participate in the award. In the end, there were only 10 ‘Iconic’ awards. We predict that the 6 shortlisted models should be: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Girard Perregaux GP, Longines Jialan, Tag Heuer Monaco, Zenith El Primero and Chopard Happy Sport. The ultra-thin Jialan series is one of the elegant Longines masterpieces. Based on the performance on the market today, the winner of the 2019 Iconic award should be Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The ‘Diver’s’ award, that is, the diving watch, is also very interesting. It cannot be regarded as a new establishment. It should be regarded as a change from the previous ‘sport watch’ award, and the scope has been narrowed. For example, the same popular pilot watch has been lost. The opportunity to sign up also fully proves how popular the diving sports watch market has been in the past two years. Watch fans should think of several popular diving watches such as Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Submersibles, Rolex Submariners and Sea Divers, Omega Seahorse 300 and Ocean Universe, Panerai. However, they did not come, and this award competition was not as eye-catching as expected. In the end, 13 models were registered, and most of them were relatively small. This will cause a lot of distress to the GPHG judges. Which 6 should be selected? Shortlisted? In 2019, the Diver’s Award was set up. From a market perspective, the final winner’s competition should be between 3 watches of Longines Concas, Seiko ‘Abalone Shell’ and Athens Pilot. However, Seiko dive watches won the best sports watch award last year, and there should be only two competitors. The ‘Calendar and Astronomy’ award is directly translated as ‘Calendar and Astronomy Watch’. Compared with 2018, it is a new item, but looking back at the history of GPHG, it is a return of calendar models. The award was a bit inexplicable last year. Calendars, annual calendars, perpetual calendars, moon phases and various astronomical indications are the origin of horological functions. It is also a huge branch in the field of watches today. It is reasonable to return. 02. Who is more interested in GPHG in 2019? The GPHG selection rules stipulate that a watch can only register for one award, but a brand can participate in a total of seven awards, so who is more enthusiastic about the ‘Oscar Awards in the watch industry’? Only one brand reached this number limit in 2019.It is the professional watch brand from LVMH Group-Zenith. El Primero’s 50th Anniversary Watch is presented with Iconic awards. Zenith has signed up for seven awards: ladies’ watches, men’s watches, men’s complication watches, Iconic, chronometers, chronographs and small hands. The purpose of the Geneva Watch Awards is to encourage innovation and promote the healthy development of the global watch industry, but the Swiss brand is the main player in the watch market today, and it is also obviously a major player in the GPHG. Today, most of the world-renowned watch brands belong to the four major luxury goods groups. From the perspective of the group, two different phenomena are exhibited: LVMH and Kering Group have higher enthusiasm, and Swatch and Richemont have only a few brands. The LVMH Group has 6 brands registered, and almost all brands under the watch and jewelry department have arrived: 6 outside Buddhism, Bvlgari registration, 2 Shangmei Paris, 3 Tag Heuer, 4 Hublot; belonging to The brand LV of the fashion leather goods department also registered for 4 awards. Bulgari’s selection of ladies’ complex functions table Kering Group is also actively participating in it: 5 models from Athens, 4 Girard Perregaux watches, and Gucci, a popular fashion brand, also sent 2 watches to the award. GP Girard Perregaux has participated in the Iconic Awards LVMH and Kering have performed aggressively in recent years, and it is reasonable to actively participate in GPHG. LV and Gucci both launched their own high-end jewellery products during the Paris High Week. At this time, the GPHG awards were “connected with each other”, and the battle for the king of luxury looks very good. Speaking of which, how can we not mention Chanel? This year’s GPHG, Chanel only registered for the selection of women’s watches and men’s watches, but the jewelry watches that have often participated in previous years did not register, which is incredible. Surprisingly, Audemars Piguet did not sign up for this often-finalized award, but at the beginning of the year SIHH released a new high-end jewelry watch Sapphire Orbe. The final entry for the Jewellery Watch Awards was only 7 pieces. Richemont Group has only three brands registered for GPHG this year. Van Cleef & Arpels has always participated in the evaluation of women’s watches, women’s complications and jewellery watches, Vacheron Constantin participated in the men’s complications watch and complex machinery awards, and IWC has 6 registrations. Vacheron Constantin’s Twin Beat watches selected for the complex mechanical function award This year, the Swatch Group is also three brands. Longines participated in three awards, radar participated in two, and Hamilton sent a retro chronograph to the Iconic Awards; other advanced Watchmaking brands have not returned. Hamilton retro-style chronograph Richemont and Swatch are big watchmakers. The former has 11 high-end watch brands, and the latter has 18 watch brands from entry to the top. Only a few brands are involved. It’s a worry. 03, GPHG’s peculiar function watches encourage horological innovation is a major purpose of GPHG, so the watches sent to participate in the award often have a lot of bright mechanical design, or technological innovation. In particular, the award for complex mechanical functions, Mechanical Exception, as described in the original text, many watch functions are unexpected and very cool. Fiyta Group’s high-end designer brand ‘Mu Yang Timepiece’ sent its King Sword series ‘Xuanyuan Sword’ watch launched at the Shenzhen Watch Fair 2019 to participate in the award. The Xuanyuanjian watch’s time indication function is very creative: the sword-shaped pointer in the center of the dial is the minute hand, and it rotates once in 60 minutes; whenever the minute hand sweeps past the 12 o’clock position, the sword-shaped hour marker on the outer edge of the dial will eject, indicating At the next hour, when the time indicator reaches 12:59, the sword-shaped time scales at 2 to 12 o’clock are all retracted, and the time scale at 1 o’clock is fixed. This feature was released by Mu Yang Timepieces at the Basel Show in early 2018. The original design has attracted a lot of attention. Last year, the name ‘King Arthur’ was inspired by the story of King Arthur and the 12 Knights of the Round Table in British history. This year’s Xuanyuan sword is inspired by the legend of the ancient Chinese emperor Huangdi. The metal carving on the dial, the short sword in the center of the dial and the Xuanyuan sword on the case back are all from traditional culture. What is quite interesting is that this year GPHG also has several watches. The time display method is the same as this Xuanyuan sword. The Dewitt Slide watch also participated in the complex mechanical function award. The center of the dial is a minute hand and a second hand, and the outer edge of the dial is a digital hour marker. The Slide model differs from the Xuanyuanjian watch’s dagger time scale from the inside out. The Slide’s digital time scale slides inward along the track from the outermost edge of the dial. The two watches that LV participated in the Women’s Complication Awards and Men’s Complication Awards are from the Tambour Spin Time Air series. Functionally, they are the same, but they are different in appearance. They are mechanically similar to the Xuanyuanjian and Slide watches. It’s very similar. The Tambour Spin Time Air series watch also displays the minutes through a pointer in the center of the dial, and the hours are indicated by the active time scale on the outermost edge of the dial. The difference is that the LV time scale is not a two-dimensional plane movement, but a three-dimensional rotation. When the minute hand slides past the 12 o’clock position, the previous time scale instantly turns 90 degrees, which is consistent with the display of other non-current hour scales, and the current time scale also instantly turns to the time indication surface. This three-dimensional rotating display time was a design launched ten years ago by LV, and it was called Tambour Spin Time. This year, the new model added Air to the back, which refers to the redesigned movement, the three-dimensional hour markers are hollowed out, and the front and back are lined with transparent sapphire. Looks like floating in the air. Of course, there are many interesting watches, as well as fish in troubled waters. There is no innovation in function and design, and even bare copying. The ‘jeweled water ghost’, like the one above, is a watch sent to the Challenge Awards. Although the dial is studded with cheap glass diamonds, it is still a Rolex ‘water ghost’. It’s a glimpse of how popular the diving watch market is. / end / Interview Notes of Lu Xi Join readers, please send name + occupation + WeChat to [email protected]