How Hot Is The Diving Watch?

In addition to all kinds of water ghosts not available in the market, we can also learn how hot the diving watches are now through the Geneva Watch Fair, the GPHG Geneva Watch Awards and the Basel Watch Fair. They are the biggest international events of the year in the watch industry. They used to be a window for watch fans to understand the popular trends of the watch industry. The Beibei series launched by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 2018 as a historical watch is also a diving watch in recent years. The Internet has made the world flatter and faster, and the two exhibitions and big prizes are also facing major changes in time and space. The effect of this traditional method of getting together to do big things has been challenged. The Swatch Group will start its own new watch launch conference in 2019. LVMH Group will also go to Dubai alone to release a new round of products in January 2020. Although its four major brands are determined to participate in Basel in May, they will continue to Hard to say. Over the years, many important brands have ceased to participate in the GPHG awards. However, fortunately, there are still many brands that attach more importance to it, and more and more international brands have come to participate. This activity can also maintain surface prosperity. Citizen sent ultra-precise quartz watches with an annual error of 1 second. Not long ago, GPHG announced the registration forms for 2019. There are 196 entries in total, which is similar to the previous 195 entries. The ‘Clock Watch Oscar’ has arrived In the 19th, the lineup still looks huge. Not surprisingly, on November 7, 2019, a jury of more than 30 watch industry experts from around the world will vote in Geneva to select the 19 best watches of the year. 01. The difference between the diving watch real fire and the Oscar film award is that the GPHG watch award settings are dynamically changed. Every year, some adjustments are made according to market feedback. In 2019, 14 registration categories were set, which is 2 more than the previous one. , Slight adjustment on classification attributes. Compared with the 2018 registration category, there are actually three changes in 2019, namely the ‘Iconic’ award, the ‘Diver’s’ award and the ‘Calendar and Astronomy’ award. ‘Iconic’ is a new item. Men’s watches and women’s watches can be selected for this ‘Idol’ award. The functions, materials, and prices are not limited. The key requirement is that they have been in existence for more than 25 years and have symbolic significance for the brand. It is not easy to add the Iconic Award in 2019. It is not easy to sell a product for a quarter century. Many watches of many brands on the market today are actually new works that follow the fashion trend; another On the other hand, brands must be influential in the industry, and they must be leading the way, otherwise how can they be called ‘Iconic’? The difficulty is attributed to the difficulty. In the past few decades, many excellent watches have precipitated on the market. Patek Philippe Nautilus, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Vacheron Constantin are all around the world, Rolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster, Cartier Tank, Panerai Luminor and other classics. One by one, this will be a very competitive award. But the ideal is very full and the reality is very skinny. Too many well-known brands did not come to participate in the GPHG awards, and some brands did not send these types of watches to participate in the award. In the end, there were only 10 ‘Iconic’ awards. We predict that the 6 shortlisted models should be: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Girard Perregaux GP, Longines Jialan, Tag Heuer Monaco, Zenith El Primero and Chopard Happy Sport. The ultra-thin Jialan series is one of the elegant Longines masterpieces. Based on the performance on the market today, the winner of the 2019 Iconic award should be Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The ‘Diver’s’ award, that is, the diving watch, is also very interesting. It cannot be regarded as a new establishment. It should be regarded as a change from the previous ‘sport watch’ award, and the scope has been narrowed. For example, the same popular pilot watch has been lost. The opportunity to sign up also fully proves how popular the diving sports watch market has been in the past two years. Watch fans should think of several popular diving watches such as Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Submersibles, Rolex Submariners and Sea Divers, Omega Seahorse 300 and Ocean Universe, Panerai. However, they did not come, and this award competition was not as eye-catching as expected. In the end, 13 models were registered, and most of them were relatively small. This will cause a lot of distress to the GPHG judges. Which 6 should be selected? Shortlisted? In 2019, the Diver’s Award was set up. From a market perspective, the final winner’s competition should be between 3 watches of Longines Concas, Seiko ‘Abalone Shell’ and Athens Pilot. However, Seiko dive watches won the best sports watch award last year, and there should be only two competitors. The ‘Calendar and Astronomy’ award is directly translated as ‘Calendar and Astronomy Watch’. Compared with 2018, it is a new item, but looking back at the history of GPHG, it is a return of calendar models. The award was a bit inexplicable last year. Calendars, annual calendars, perpetual calendars, moon phases and various astronomical indications are the origin of horological functions. It is also a huge branch in the field of watches today. It is reasonable to return. 02. Who is more interested in GPHG in 2019? The GPHG selection rules stipulate that a watch can only register for one award, but a brand can participate in a total of seven awards, so who is more enthusiastic about the ‘Oscar Awards in the watch industry’? Only one brand reached this number limit in 2019.It is the professional watch brand from LVMH Group-Zenith. El Primero’s 50th Anniversary Watch is presented with Iconic awards. Zenith has signed up for seven awards: ladies’ watches, men’s watches, men’s complication watches, Iconic, chronometers, chronographs and small hands. The purpose of the Geneva Watch Awards is to encourage innovation and promote the healthy development of the global watch industry, but the Swiss brand is the main player in the watch market today, and it is also obviously a major player in the GPHG. Today, most of the world-renowned watch brands belong to the four major luxury goods groups. From the perspective of the group, two different phenomena are exhibited: LVMH and Kering Group have higher enthusiasm, and Swatch and Richemont have only a few brands. The LVMH Group has 6 brands registered, and almost all brands under the watch and jewelry department have arrived: 6 outside Buddhism, Bvlgari registration, 2 Shangmei Paris, 3 Tag Heuer, 4 Hublot; belonging to The brand LV of the fashion leather goods department also registered for 4 awards. Bulgari’s selection of ladies’ complex functions table Kering Group is also actively participating in it: 5 models from Athens, 4 Girard Perregaux watches, and Gucci, a popular fashion brand, also sent 2 watches to the award. GP Girard Perregaux has participated in the Iconic Awards LVMH and Kering have performed aggressively in recent years, and it is reasonable to actively participate in GPHG. LV and Gucci both launched their own high-end jewellery products during the Paris High Week. At this time, the GPHG awards were “connected with each other”, and the battle for the king of luxury looks very good. Speaking of which, how can we not mention Chanel? This year’s GPHG, Chanel only registered for the selection of women’s watches and men’s watches, but the jewelry watches that have often participated in previous years did not register, which is incredible. Surprisingly, Audemars Piguet did not sign up for this often-finalized award, but at the beginning of the year SIHH released a new high-end jewelry watch Sapphire Orbe. The final entry for the Jewellery Watch Awards was only 7 pieces. Richemont Group has only three brands registered for GPHG this year. Van Cleef & Arpels has always participated in the evaluation of women’s watches, women’s complications and jewellery watches, Vacheron Constantin participated in the men’s complications watch and complex machinery awards, and IWC has 6 registrations. Vacheron Constantin’s Twin Beat watches selected for the complex mechanical function award This year, the Swatch Group is also three brands. Longines participated in three awards, radar participated in two, and Hamilton sent a retro chronograph to the Iconic Awards; other advanced Watchmaking brands have not returned. Hamilton retro-style chronograph Richemont and Swatch are big watchmakers. The former has 11 high-end watch brands, and the latter has 18 watch brands from entry to the top. Only a few brands are involved. It’s a worry. 03, GPHG’s peculiar function watches encourage horological innovation is a major purpose of GPHG, so the watches sent to participate in the award often have a lot of bright mechanical design, or technological innovation. In particular, the award for complex mechanical functions, Mechanical Exception, as described in the original text, many watch functions are unexpected and very cool. Fiyta Group’s high-end designer brand ‘Mu Yang Timepiece’ sent its King Sword series ‘Xuanyuan Sword’ watch launched at the Shenzhen Watch Fair 2019 to participate in the award. The Xuanyuanjian watch’s time indication function is very creative: the sword-shaped pointer in the center of the dial is the minute hand, and it rotates once in 60 minutes; whenever the minute hand sweeps past the 12 o’clock position, the sword-shaped hour marker on the outer edge of the dial will eject, indicating At the next hour, when the time indicator reaches 12:59, the sword-shaped time scales at 2 to 12 o’clock are all retracted, and the time scale at 1 o’clock is fixed. This feature was released by Mu Yang Timepieces at the Basel Show in early 2018. The original design has attracted a lot of attention. Last year, the name ‘King Arthur’ was inspired by the story of King Arthur and the 12 Knights of the Round Table in British history. This year’s Xuanyuan sword is inspired by the legend of the ancient Chinese emperor Huangdi. The metal carving on the dial, the short sword in the center of the dial and the Xuanyuan sword on the case back are all from traditional culture. What is quite interesting is that this year GPHG also has several watches. The time display method is the same as this Xuanyuan sword. The Dewitt Slide watch also participated in the complex mechanical function award. The center of the dial is a minute hand and a second hand, and the outer edge of the dial is a digital hour marker. The Slide model differs from the Xuanyuanjian watch’s dagger time scale from the inside out. The Slide’s digital time scale slides inward along the track from the outermost edge of the dial. The two watches that LV participated in the Women’s Complication Awards and Men’s Complication Awards are from the Tambour Spin Time Air series. Functionally, they are the same, but they are different in appearance. They are mechanically similar to the Xuanyuanjian and Slide watches. It’s very similar. The Tambour Spin Time Air series watch also displays the minutes through a pointer in the center of the dial, and the hours are indicated by the active time scale on the outermost edge of the dial. The difference is that the LV time scale is not a two-dimensional plane movement, but a three-dimensional rotation. When the minute hand slides past the 12 o’clock position, the previous time scale instantly turns 90 degrees, which is consistent with the display of other non-current hour scales, and the current time scale also instantly turns to the time indication surface. This three-dimensional rotating display time was a design launched ten years ago by LV, and it was called Tambour Spin Time. This year, the new model added Air to the back, which refers to the redesigned movement, the three-dimensional hour markers are hollowed out, and the front and back are lined with transparent sapphire. Looks like floating in the air. Of course, there are many interesting watches, as well as fish in troubled waters. There is no innovation in function and design, and even bare copying. The ‘jeweled water ghost’, like the one above, is a watch sent to the Challenge Awards. Although the dial is studded with cheap glass diamonds, it is still a Rolex ‘water ghost’. It’s a glimpse of how popular the diving watch market is. / end / Interview Notes of Lu Xi Join readers, please send name + occupation + WeChat to [email protected]