Throw Away Colored Glasses For You To Explain The Quartz Watch (Below)

In the last episode, we mentioned that a ‘quartz revolution’ that almost destroyed the world’s watch industry in the 1970s changed the watch from a luxury product to a cheap microelectronic product. Although the Swiss traditional watchmaking industry can be said to hate quartz watches, but from the perspective of timing and practicality, this is indeed a great revolution. In the above episode, I mainly talked about some common knowledge issues about quartz watches that netizens are more concerned about. In this episode, we will analyze quartz watches in depth from a technical perspective.
 We first need to talk about the development of electronic clocks and their respective characteristics. I think that the development of quartz clocks should be divided into five generations. The first generation was a balance spring type electronic clock, which mainly appeared in the form of semiconductor clocks. It was more common in the 1970s and 1980s, and such watches were relatively rare. It has the following characteristics: the use of battery power instead of clockwork; The triode switch circuit is used for electromagnetic conversion. The balance spring is still used, with the same frequency as the mechanical watch, 2.5 Hz, 18,000 times per hour. The timer has many parts, and the accuracy of the travel time is not significantly improved.

 The second generation is a tuning fork-type electronic timepiece, which has been produced by Omega and Hamilton, and has been trial-produced by Tianjin Watch Factory and Beijing Watch Factory, but the process of its development has been short-lived and has a very small amount in the world. It is characterized by high travel time accuracy (+/- 2 seconds / day); it uses a metal tuning fork oscillator with a frequency of 300-720 Hz; the number of parts is relatively small, but its detent wear is large and its life is short.

 The third generation is the current analog quartz clock, which is also a watch with a very large market share at present, which is characterized by high travel time accuracy (15 seconds / month, 0.5 seconds / day, and advanced annual difference within 10 seconds); Quartz crystal oscillator, commonly used frequency of 32,768 Hz; relatively few parts of the movement, about 50 to 60 pieces, about 130 ordinary mechanical watches, more than 150 automatic watches, about 200 with calendar function; Quartz watches have fewer man-hours and lower costs, only about 300 processes, while mechanical watches require at least 1,300 processes; this watch is easy to use, a battery can run for 2 to 3 years, good stability, and no position difference ; More importantly, the movement is thin and the diameter is small, the appearance and shape can be changed at will.

 The fourth generation is a digital display quartz timepiece. This type is a digital display of time. It uses large-scale integrated circuits with almost no mechanical parts to achieve diversified functions. It also uses a quartz crystal oscillator with a frequency of 32,768 Hz. Large-scale production, high efficiency of automated assembly, and low cost; but the life is not high, mainly because the life of the LCD panel is short, about 7-10 years.

 The fifth generation is the radio wave watch that Citizen is now pushing. The radio wave watch has extremely high travel time accuracy. Under the condition of receiving a signal, the error is 100,000 years for 1 second. Because the traditional clocks are ‘soldier combat’, one watch is one sample, one hundred watches are 100 samples; and the radio wave watch is ‘group battle’, all the clocks are exactly the same time!
 Because the radio wave watch combines traditional clock technology with modern time-frequency technology, microelectronics technology, communication technology, computer technology and many other technologies, it receives the standard time signal transmitted by the national time service center by radio long wave and is decoded by the built-in microprocessor. After that, the auto-calibration timer goes off, so that the time displayed by all radio timepieces and the national standard time are automatically maintained in precise synchronization. Moreover, China has become the fifth country in the world after Germany, the United States, the United Kingdom, and Japan to implement the long-wave time service technology for civilian use. In addition, the radio wave watch can also be used as an ordinary quartz clock in the dead zone of the signal, and the time can be automatically corrected when entering the signal coverage area.

 Let me talk about the composition of the quartz oscillator. The quartz oscillator is composed of a quartz oscillator and an oscillation circuit. The oscillation frequency is generally 32,768 Hz per second. The analog quartz watch passes through a 16-level two-frequency division, and finally outputs a narrow pulse signal with a positive and negative alternating of 0.5 Hz per second. The liquid crystal display meter is divided into 15 levels of two, and outputs a pulse signal of 1 Hz per second. (Frequency division means that the same clock signal is used to convert clock signals of different frequencies through a certain circuit structure. Two frequency division means that the circuit structure has a frequency division effect. When the clock triggers every two cycles, the circuit outputs a periodic signal. For example, a pulse clock is used to trigger a counter, and the counter is cleared once every 2 counts and a pulse is output, then this circuit achieves the function of dividing by two. From Baidu Encyclopedia).
 I believe that when you see the physical description above, most people will be confused. Below, I will describe the working principle in Chinese. The quartz oscillator is composed of a highly stable quartz oscillator and a part of a CMOS integrated circuit. The high-frequency oscillation frequency of 32,768 Hz is generated through the technical processing of the CMOS circuit. Finally, positive and negative alternating pulse signals are generated. The input coil and current generate a variable magnetic field in the stator and interact with the permanent magnet field of the magnetized rotor. Rotate the rotor component in a directional direction, the gear of the rotor drives the transmission gear train to indicate the second, and the hour and minute are indicated by the moving needle system. The energy consumed during the entire working process is supplemented by batteries. The drift of the quartz oscillation frequency can be adjusted by fine-tuning the capacitor, or by using a logic frequency modulation circuit in the integrated circuit.
 Next I will talk about the advantages and disadvantages of the performance of mechanical watch movements and analog quartz movements. In terms of power system, the clockwork of the mechanical watch will inevitably have a torque drop, which will affect the time difference and have a great impact on the travel time accuracy. The quartz watch only needs to discharge the battery smoothly, which has little effect on the travel time. As for the transmission gear train, the mechanical watch transmits both torque and time, and it is a speed-increasing transmission, which has a great impact on travel time. The quartz watch only transmits time and does not transmit torque, and it is a deceleration transmission, which has a small impact on travel time.
In terms of speed regulating mechanism, the processing and assembly of balance springs of mechanical watches are complicated, and there are many factors affecting the vibration cycle. Generally, there will be position errors. The vibration frequency is 3 to 4 Hz, and the day difference is generally 20 to 30 seconds. Precision mechanical watch in about 10 seconds. Quartz watch has high precision, no position difference, vibration frequency of 32768 Hz, and the day difference is completely guaranteed within 0.5 seconds. The movement of the hands is basically the same, but the second hand moment of the mechanical watch is large, the second hand moment of the quartz watch is small, the difference between the two is 40 ~ 60 times. In terms of adjustment, the mechanical watch needs to move the position of the fast and slow hands, change the length of the balance spring, or change the moment of inertia of the balance wheel. Manual operation is very difficult. The quartz watch only needs to adjust the speed with the logic frequency modulation method, and has a high degree of industrialization. In addition, the mechanical watch will be affected by temperature. The high temperature meter will slow down and the low temperature meter will move faster (temperature coefficient standard: 1 second / day / degree), while the quartz watch will go up and down except for the inflection point temperature of 25 ℃ Slow (temperature coefficient standard: 0.1 second / day / degree).

 The automatic mechanism of the mechanical watch can collect the kinetic energy of the human body, eliminating the trouble of winding the bar by hand every day; although the advantage of the quartz watch is that the time is accurate, less than 0.5 seconds per day, the disadvantage is that the battery needs to be replaced every two or three years. The design idea of ​​the human power watch is to combine the advantages of the two. Japan has registered a patent for ‘Human Power’, and Switzerland calls such a structure ‘automatic quartz.’ Its working principle guides the flying tourbillon in the watch through the natural movement of the human arm, drives the micro-generator to generate current, and stores electrical energy in the capacitor storage device to provide electrical energy for the quartz movement. When the electric capacity is sufficient, the watch can be transported away continuously for more than 3 months, and the theoretical service life of the capacitor can be up to 10 years. This type of watch is called electric energy in Japan; automatic quartz in Switzerland.
 I believe that after reading the above text, you will definitely have the idea of ​​winning a quartz watch. I think that a mechanical watch is really useless, but I want to say that if you buy it to see the time, it must be a quartz watch, but if you pursue superb craftsmanship , Polished and cultural value, then mechanical watches are always irreplaceable.

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[Video] Real Shot Longines Master Series Annual Calendar Watch

Longines launched its famous watch series calendar in Basel this year. The Longines watch series is the brand’s first watch series with annual calendar function. The Longines Master Series Annual Calendar watch combines elegant style and excellent craftsmanship. The case with a diameter of 40 mm is equipped with the new automatic mechanical movement L897. The watch has a 64-hour kinetic energy reserve, and the calendar display window is at 3 o’clock. Through the transparent case back, the graceful movement of the movement can be seen at a glance. Rhodium-plated or blue steel hands with black or silver dial with barley grain, or blue sun dial. The model can be equipped with a stainless steel bracelet or a black, brown, or blue alligator leather strap. All straps are fitted with a folding safety clasp.

Longines Master Series Annual Calendar Watch

For more information about the latest Baselworld watch fair 2018, please pay attention to the watch house live feature:

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Bucherer Edmar Watch Series Grandly Arrived In Hong Kong

Bucherer’s dedication to traditional and excellent values ​​is perfectly reflected in the Adamavi watch series: the word Adamavi is derived from Latin and contains ‘love something’ or ‘enjoy a The meaning of ‘fun in the middle’ symbolizes the affection of the watch owner. Seven new works launched this year at the Baselworld Watch & Jewellery Show have arrived in Hong Kong and are fascinating.
    The Adamavi watch series combines timeless simplicity and outstanding mechanical functions. The pleasing visual aesthetics are not limited by the ephemeral trend, beyond the level of the watch, allowing the watch owner to appreciate the reliability and value of the watch. The beauty of eternity. Its subtle and timeless design is suitable for the watch owner to wear on different occasions; the pure and simple lines are not limited by the so-called fashion trend, but also represent eternal value. The eye-catching products launched in 2011 include the 18K rose gold Adamavi Pavé diamond watch-the dial and bezel are set with sparkling diamonds, and the dial diamonds are extremely elegant from the inside to the outside. With the golden rod hour markers, the layout is shaped like a sun ray. Warm and moving, Guanghua never fades.
Men’s styles are flashy

Price (left to right): HK $ 153,000 / HK $ 180,000 / HK $ 65,000 / HK $ 88,000

Ladies’ Style: Noble and Refined

Price (left to right): HK $ 240,000 / HK $ 170,000 / HK $ 48,000

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Cartier Sell Time More Sell Culture

Thierry Lamouroux, a graduate of the Central Polytechnic in Paris, majored in mechanical engineering. At 23, he joined Cartier as an assistant to Bernard Formas, then Cartier’s global marketing director. After assisting Formas for two years, Thierry was promoted to assistant president. During this period, he was responsible for a number of different projects, including communication and coordination of marketing activities, Cartier’s participation in the Geneva International Haute Horlogerie, and implementation of the brand’s new customer service policy. In 2003, Thierry joined Cartier’s watch marketing department, and in July 2010 was appointed Director of Cartier’s Global Watch Marketing. In Thierry Lamouroux’s eyes, innovation, breakthroughs and craftsmanship are the core concepts that the brand has always adhered to. ‘Since Cartier was founded in 1847, it has insisted on creating distinctive and exquisite works with abundant creative inspirations. The legendary works of Chen Gui, as well as Cartier’s watches. ‘Yang Di Evening News reporter Wu Di

Yang Yang: For the Asian market, what is the focus of Cartier’s watch promotion this year?

T: Cartier has many new works every year in fine watchmaking, fine jewelry watches and other models. This year, we have taken a milestone step forward in the field of complex and self-developed movements. Whether it’s adhering to the idea of ​​making the first mysterious clock in 1912 and putting it back in the newly designed Rotonde de Cartier dual mysterious tourbillon watch, or putting a complex movement on a high-end jewelry watch Cheetah miniature engraving watches, and so on, this year, in the field of fine watchmaking and fine jewelry craftsmanship, we have spent considerable energy on the development of the movement. In addition, Tank watch, as one of the brand’s oldest and most symbolic series, also launched this year’s Tank MC equipped with Cartier’s first self-developed movement-1904MC movement. Cartier, as a global brand, does not conduct differentiated marketing activities for a specific country or region. All of the above are global.

Yan Yang: What are the characteristics of high-end watches that will be loved by the Chinese?

T: Generally speaking, it is the inheritance of superb craftsmanship and aesthetics. As mentioned earlier, this is true for consumers worldwide, including China. A good watch must contain a distinctive gene: a high-quality movement, a historical heritage, or an unparalleled beauty. Proudly, Cartier watches have this gene. Take the Rotonde de Cartier double mysterious tourbillon watch launched this year as an example. The tourbillon of this magical watch is like hanging in the air. This inspiration originated in 1912 and was called the ‘mystery in the history of clocks’. As the ‘Emperor of Jewelers’, Cartier is also a masterpiece in the field of high-end jewelry watches, extending the brand’s exquisite craftsmanship and rich inspiration to the field of watches, giving watch works the ultimate beauty of high-end jewelry.

Yang Yang: The same complex movement launched by its brand, what is the advantage of Cartier movement?

T: Creativity and beauty. Cartier has a considerable history in jewellery and watch making, and the accomplishments of jewelry have brought the brand’s aesthetic standards to the field of watches. Today, our watchmaking workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland has become one of the largest comprehensive integration workshops in Switzerland. Over 1200 artisans have worked hard here, enabling every step of Cartier’s watch production to be completed here. . The strong watchmaking strength has provided us with more creative space. Since the introduction of the fine watchmaking series in 2008, 26 home-made movements have been developed in just 5 years, 8 of which have won the Geneva Quality Mark. In addition, the long history of the brand also provides us with more sources of inspiration: for example, the birth of the Rotonde de Cartier double mysterious tourbillon watch is derived from the mystery known as ‘miracles in the history of clocks’ more than 100 years ago. bell. In this era of rapid technological development, everyone can continue to improve in technology. When it comes to aesthetics and heritage, Cartier’s legendary masterpieces do indeed provide us with a huge treasure trove of inspiration.

Wei Yang: Are you considering launching a watch customization service in China?

T: Custom service is a traditional business that Cartier has been in existence since the brand was founded. This is progressable globally, including in China. We can choose different materials based on the existing models according to customer needs, or customize the dial pattern, or redesign after communicating with customers to create a brand new watch. It should be mentioned that every watch from Cartier needs to comply with the brand’s aesthetic standards and DNA. Therefore, during the customization and design process, we will fully communicate with customers to create works that meet both customer needs and our aesthetic standards. .

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Wearing A Watch Is Also About Decent Men’s Wrist Satisfaction

Men’s love for watches is just as fierce as women’s for bags and jewelry, but it is not just a casual one that can show their true temperament. In the world of thousands of watches It is not so easy to choose a watch that suits you. Face-conscious men always like to be different, and they also wear watches. Whether it is a business dinner or a relaxing vacation, they always like the half-covered ‘landscape’ in their sleeves to attract attention. This may be what men call Satisfaction! Today’s Watch House recommends several wristwatches suitable for men, which can control any occasion.
Tag Heuer Carrera WAS2111.FC6293

Watch Series: Carrera
Movement type: automatic machinery
Case material: Stainless steel
Strap Material: Crocodile Leather
Case diameter: 39 mm
Domestic public price: ¥ 22,800
Watch details: 670 self-winding movement, stainless steel case with junior dial design, date display window at six o’clock, blue steel hands are particularly striking against the silver dial. The simple and elegant design makes this watch a versatile choice for any occasion.
Omega Seamaster 213.30.42.40.01.001 watch

Watch Series: Haima
Movement type: automatic machinery
Case material: Stainless steel
Strap material: stainless steel
Case diameter: 41.5 mm
Domestic public price: ¥ 30,200
Watch details: omega / 6950 /
Watch Reviews: This watch incorporates Omega’s famous watchmaking craftsmanship, paying tribute to the brand’s diving watch tradition and its pioneering spirit of adventure. This Omega Seamaster Dive 300m watch has a black wavy dial. The calendar window is set at 3 o’clock, and it also has a 30-minute chronograph dial, a 12-hour chronograph dial and a small second dial. The wear-resistant sapphire crystal brings out the unique dial. The 41.5 mm stainless steel case is equipped with a black unidirectional rotating bezel and a helium exhaust valve at 10 o’clock.
Summary: The prices of the above recommended watches are around 30,000 yuan, which is still affordable for men who are pursuing high-quality watches, and the watches are very suitable for tasteful, both in appearance and function. Men, if you have a watch purchase plan, you may wish to consider the above.

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Chopin Watchmaking Workshop After 20 Years (Below)-continue Forward

Although there is no shortage of risks, especially the risk of failing to meet stringent top-level watchmaking standards, Chopard has achieved excellence since the establishment of the Fleurier watch factory in 1996: the first watches will be Withstand quality certification.

   Karl-Friedrich Schaefer hopes that Chopard will be a win-win situation in the future: end customers can get impeccable independent quality assurance; and the Chopard brand will inspire itself to continuously improve the production quality until it obtains the highest level of certification.
   The first certification by Karl-Frederick Schaferron was the Official Swiss Observatory Certification (COSC). Chopard was then the first independent watchmaker to dare to challenge exacting standards from the very beginning.
   The COSC certification is only for the accuracy of the movement’s timing, after which Chopard chose the Poinçon de Genève quality certification. This certification guarantees the superior decorative quality of the movement. As a result, Chopard has adhered to the strictest decorative standards since 1996. Since then, all parts of the L.U.C movement have been carefully hand-decorated by the decoration experts of Chopard Watchmaking Workshop according to the highest standards of fine watchmaking. These craftsmen have even revitalized the nearly lost ancient techniques such as fleurisanne carving.
   In 2004, Qualité Fleurier came out. Chopard is one of the founding watch factories of this independent certification. This certification is extremely rigorous, and the quality of the movement and the finished watch is tested both statically and through Fleuritest. Only watches that have been certified by COSC are eligible to apply for this certification and require the watch to successfully pass four other tests, including the Chronofiable test. The watch must also be 100% Swiss made.
   The Chopard Watchmaking Workshop now has the largest number of timepieces that have passed the Fleurier Quality Foundation inspection, with a total of more than 1,000 pieces belonging to 8 models.
Development of L.U.C movement
   In 1996, Chopard introduced the LUC 96.01-L movement. This movement is equipped with a 22K gold miniature oscillating weight with a two-way automatic winding mechanism, a small second hand at 6 o’clock, a 65-hour power reserve, and was awarded the Geneva Seal Certification, which established Chopard. Historical cornerstone of the watchmaking workshop. This movement is used to configure the first L.U.C watch: L.U.C 1860.

   Following the L.U.C 96.01-L movement, Chopard Watchmaking Workshop has launched other movements. This fruitful and exemplary achievement is part of the plan, but its realization is extremely challenging. In just a few decades, the Geneva-based family business Chopard not only set a model for watch factories in Fleurier, but also produced a series of veritable mechanical movements. In 2016, at the 20th anniversary of the Chopard Watchmaking Workshop, Karl-Friedrich Schaefer proudly counted 11 extraordinary basic movements and 87 derivative movements.
Innovative watch factory awarded multiple patents

 
   In 2000, Chopard launched the L.U.C 98-01-L movement, the ‘Quattro’ movement incorporated in the L.U.C Quattro watch. No less than four kinetic energy accumulators and a clockwork spring with a total length of 1.88 meters give this 205-element manually wound movement an amazing 9-day power reserve. The Geneva mark and COSC certification underline the quality of the movement and the extraordinary production quality of the Chopard Watchmaking Workshop. In 2003, Chopard launched the first tourbillon movement LUC 02.01-L. It has a diameter of 29 mm and a thickness of 6 mm. It contains 224 parts. It also uses innovative technology and features a new mechanism: the ‘Variner’ four-arm built-in adjustment block can Variable inertia balance with Philip terminal curve hairspring and four barrels made with ‘Quattro’ technology. The tourbillon rotates 360 degrees per minute to compensate for errors due to gravity. In addition, this extraordinary movement has also received the Geneva Seal and Precision Chronometer certification, which is extremely rare for tourbillon watches and completes the quality and performance of the movement.

   The L.U.C 96.13-L movement launched in 2005 is not only equipped with a perpetual calendar that did not require any manual correction 2100 years ago, but also features a moon phase display. According to the leap year calendar system, this innovative display mechanism will have a 24-hour deviation every 45 or 46 days in 122 years compared to the actual moon phase operation.
Beep time

 
   In 2006, the first timekeeping movement of the L.U.C. series came out. Technicians and watchmakers collaborate to create sophisticated timekeeping mechanisms. Thanks to the exquisite mechanism, the L.U.C Strike One watch equipped with the 300-element L.U.C 96.14-L movement can automatically sound the hours with crisp and pleasant sound. Just press the button to turn off the timekeeping function.

Overcoming the Challenges of a Chronograph

 

   The simple appearance sometimes obscures the essence of complexity … In fact, chronographs are extremely challenging for watchmakers, and the production of mechanical mechanisms is extremely difficult. The L.U.C 03.02-L automatic movement, launched with the L.U.C Chrono One in 2007, is equipped with a column wheel and flyback function. It requires a team of 25 employees for up to 16,000 hours of research and development to complete the production. The outstanding and innovative design of the movement includes a zeroing lever equipped with a smart hammer, an automatic winding mechanism with a patented gear train, and a subtle second-hand zeroing mechanism.
Process crystallization

 

  In 2010, Chopard launched the L.U.C 05.01-L movement to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the brand. Karl-Frederick Schaefer decided to launch an amazing work, and the L.U.C 150 All-in-One was born. The case incorporates existing technical elements and new complex functions. In addition to 4 barrels, 216-hour power reserve, tourbillon, perpetual calendar, moon phase display and constellation chart of the northern hemisphere, this masterpiece condensed by this high-precision technology shows true solar time and flat sun at the bottom Time difference (time equation), and sunrise and sunset times. The watchmaker used a total of 558 parts to create this movement, which has been awarded the Geneva Seal and Precision Chronometer Certification.
The unquestionable world first

 
   In 2011, Chopard launched the L.U.C Triple Certification Tourbillon watch, demonstrating its full control over the accuracy of chronographs that meet certification standards. Prior to housing, L.U.C 02.01-L manual winding mechanical movements must first be certified by the Swiss Official Observatory (COSC). The decoration of its movement parts meets the highest quality standards, and the timepiece is engraved with the Geneva Seal. Finally, the watch is subjected to the most stringent certification tests in the horological market, the Fleurier Quality Certification. During the test, the watch is placed on a special machine that can simulate the real wearing conditions of the watch and test the accuracy of the finished watch within 24 hours.
Excellent control over high frequencies

 

   In 2012, Chopard proved in fact that high frequency does not necessarily affect the power reserve of the timepiece. The L.U.C 01.06-L movement in Chopard’s first high-frequency watch L.U.C 8HF, its balance wheel and hairspring can swing no less than 57,600 times per hour, and this single barrel automatic movement has a power reserve of about 60 hours. Each movement is accompanied by the Swiss Official Observatory (COSC) certification.
A tribute to the tradition of manual winding movements

 

  The Chopard Watchmaking Workshop also pays great attention to the hand-wound mechanical movement with outstanding craftsmanship. The L.U.C 06.01-L movement in the L.U.C Louis-Ulysse The Tribute watch is remarkable with its 43.2 mm diameter and 5.5 mm thickness. This mechanical masterpiece is certified by the Official Swiss Observatory (COSC) and engraved with the Geneva Seal, and is the result of the sincere cooperation between Chopard and the Ecole d’ Horlogerie de Genève (EHG). Within 30 years, students from this long-established institution can use L.U.C 06.01-L movement parts to complete their graduation work.

   The L.U.C 1963 watch designed in 2013 is equipped with the L.U.C 63.01-L movement, which is a special work to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Schafer family taking over the Chopard brand. The watch’s main board and bridge are made of white copper and hand-decorated. It can be described as a masterpiece of high-end timepieces with rich emotional connotations, paying tribute to the long tradition of watchmaking and the precision chronology of Chopard.
Pioneer using ethical ‘fair mining’ certified gold materials
   Chopard adhering to its pioneering spirit since the brand was founded, in 2014, the world’s first horological watch made from ethical gold materials was launched: L.U.C Tourbillon QF Fairmined. Gold is mined responsibly, and miners receive fair pay and premiums for training, social well-being, and environmental protection. This pioneering work belongs to the specific action of the long-term project ‘The Journey to Sustainable Luxury’ initiated by Chopard, through which Chopard promises to promote the sustainable luxury industry.
   Karl-Friedrich Schaefer hopes that in terms of long-term planning, the entire L.U.C series is made of ethical gold materials.
   In 2016, the Chopard Watchmaking Workshop celebrates its twentieth anniversary and will launch new movements and timepieces one after another. In less than 20 years, Chopard has successfully become one of the real watchmaking workshops, following the process of combining tradition and innovation, developing and producing L.U.C timepieces in the watch factory.
   For more details, please pay attention to the live feature of the Basel Watch Fair:

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Chronogram’ Research Plan: Journey Through Time Memories

On the occasion of the 2016 Geneva International Horological Watch Exhibition (SIHH), Vacheron Constantin announced the results of the ‘Chronogram’ research project, which is in collaboration with DigitalHumanitiesLab and EPFL + ECALLab. The laboratories collaborated to transform a superior company archive into an information system and highlight its important value.

   The documents of more than 350 meters have been accumulated since 1775 and contain precious memories of Vacheron Constantin. In 2014, Vacheron Constantin cooperated with two laboratories of the Federal Institute of Technology in Lausanne to ensure that these archives are permanently preserved and rejuvenated.

   The DigitalHumanitiesLab of the Federal Institute of Technology in Lausanne took nearly two years to develop new digitalization and automatic transcription technology, which can transform Vacheron Constantin’s huge literature records into a complete archive information system. EPFL + ECALLab researches the potential of emerging technologies based on the research results of visual language and explanatory principles, and develops a device that can effectively transform these huge information heritage into consulting experience. The three installations are inspired by mask art, fencing masks and panoramic telescopes, allowing users to devote themselves to the long history of Vacheron Constantin.

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New Generation Hand-wound Movement Debuts Grand Seiko Elegance

GRAND SEIKO recently launched a new series called Elegance, this has several refreshing features, including its case is ultra-thin design, dial decoration process and past brand watches It’s a little different, and more importantly, it’s also replaced with a brand-newly-developed bracelet movement developed by the brand 9S63, which left a deep impression at the beginning of the year.

GRAND SEIKO’s new work Elegance is equipped with the brand’s new bracelet movement 9S63. Its ultra-thin design and refreshed faceplate layout and decoration process show a new look different from previous GS watches.

It is surprising that such a new product from head to toe was first exposed in Baselworld. I don’t know if there will be any more powerful new works of GRAND SEIKO after Baselworld is launched to open our eyes. Speaking of this Elegance series, the brand’s first wave launched four styles, including two rose gold models, one gold model, and a stainless steel model that certainly has a lot of price points.

Elegance series launched two rose gold models, one gold model and one stainless steel model. Among them, precious metals are painted with painted faceplates, especially the rose gold models with “GS” time stamps are also made with dill painting process. High process specifications

The case of the Elegance series is 39mm. As mentioned above, it has an ultra-thin case design. In fact, the thickness is 11.6mm. This is not a record-breaking ultra-thin shape, but it is relatively thinner than a general three-hand watch. . The round case design of the watch is more distinctive because of the lugs, because the lugs narrow down from the bezel all the way down, and the cut surface of the lugs is not as sharp as the GS models in our past. It looks like People have a sense of sturdiness and shortness. At present, such a design is uncertain whether it is designed to be more comfortable when worn. When the subsequent models are officially listed, if there are table friends to take the lead to share their own experience of wearing watches.

The dial pattern of the watch is a simple small three-pin, and a power reserve indicator is provided at 3 o’clock to remind the watch owner to pay attention to the three-day power reserve period of the movement.

Elegance’s rose gold styles all use lacquered dials. These dials are from ochre workshops owned by GS. The two rose gold models are equipped with brown and black lacquered faces, respectively, and the time stamps of the models and the 12 o’clock direction. The word ‘GS’ is still processed with dill painting technique, and the whole looks quite texture. Compared to the lacquer design of the rose gold model, the silver and white lacquered dial of the gold model is relatively simple. With gold inlaid hour markers, it is relatively low-key at first glance, but carefully appreciate the various details on the dial. Japanese watchmaking On the contrary, the fineness of the product is more prominent, and it can also highlight the solid craftsmanship of GRAND SEIKO. The next thing to see is the blue dial of stainless steel. Its dial has the ‘Iwateyama pattern’ that appears from time to time in the GS model. As the name suggests, it is at the edge of Iwateyama where SII watch factory is located, and it is integrated into authentic Japan. The characteristics of watchmaking culture make the stainless steel face plate as unique and attractive.

Elegance’s round case with wide upper and lower narrow lugs is quite distinctive, and the actual wearing feels curious.

It has been about eight years since GRAND SEIKO last launched the hand-wound movement. This time, the 9S63 movement is well-prepared, including its shock frequency of 28800vph and a power reserve of 72 hours. ), More in line with modern market demand, and in the time display pattern on the watch face, in addition to the central hour and minute hands, there is a small second hand at 9 o’clock, and the power reserve display at 3 o’clock, it seems this will The brand’s new generation of basic movements.

The accuracy of the 9S63 movement is more accurate than the Swiss C.O.S.C. certification standard. At the same time, the blue steel screw is enabled on the movement, which is also a new attempt for GRAND SEIKO.

GRAND SEIKO said that the daily error value of the 9S63 movement falls between -3 and +5 seconds, which is probably a little more accurate than the Swiss COSC certification standard, and given the rigorous personality of the Japanese watch factory, such data is still used in daily wear. It may be more stunning for the wearer. In addition, the 9S63 movement has a special feature worth mentioning. In the past, the 9S movement looked all silver and white tones. So do n’t forget to pay attention to this latest design feature when you turn to the case back to appreciate the movement.

SBGK002 (right) & SBGK004 (left)

18K rose gold material / 9S63 manual winding movement / hours, minutes, small seconds display / power reserve display / painted face plate / sapphire crystal mirror surface, transparent bottom cover / diameter 39mm / limited 150 each / reference price: 215,000 RMB

SBGK006

18K yellow gold material / 9S63 manual winding movement / hour, minute, small seconds display / power reserve display / painted face plate / sapphire crystal mirror surface, transparent bottom cover / diameter 39mm / reference price: 156,000 RMB

SBGK005

Stainless steel material / 9S63 manual winding movement / hour, minute, small seconds display / power reserve display / lacquered face plate / sapphire crystal mirror surface, transparent bottom cover / 39mm diameter / limited 1500 / reference price: 52,000 RMB– –

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Ginza 7 Series Chronograph

Recently, Audemars Piguet is actively planning a long-term publicity campaign aimed at assisting people affected by the earthquake in northeastern Japan. The initial idea of ​​the plan was to raise 100 million yen in donations to the Japanese Red Cross.

 At this very moment, the brand launched a new watch-Royal Oak Offshore Ginza 7 series chronograph. The diameter is 42 mm and the case is made of high-temperature forged ultra-light carbon fiber. Its iconic octagonal design, combined with the fixing of 8 screws, is full of novelty. Water-resistant effective distance is 100 meters.
 This limited edition Audemars Piguet with only 200 watches in the world has a built-in automatic movement, hand-made from sanding to assembly. In addition, a 22-carat gold rotor can be seen through its transparent back cover.
 The exquisite movement allows this series of functions to play on the perfectly balanced dial. This Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Ginza 7 series forged carbon watch is equipped not only with a central hour meter, but also a small seconds counter at 12 o’clock.
 The timekeeping function of this watch can be unified through the 30-minute timer sub-dial at 9 o’clock, the 12-hour timer sub-dial at 6 o’clock and the central seconds hand. In addition, there is a date window at 3 o’clock, and the scale at 7 o’clock is particularly eye-catching with diamonds, which is also unique to the ‘Ginza 7’ series.
 The new Audemars Piguet comes with a black alligator strap with a folding buckle at the end.

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It’s Time To Find A Home For The Watch

In the 1980s and 1990s, the European mechanical watches that broke the haze of the ‘Quartz Revolution’ received a great revival. After thinking about reincarnation for nearly two decades, people discovered that mechanical things are really long-lasting things. Such is the case with high-end watches, high-end cars, high-end cameras, as well as high-end mechanical music boxes that the top luxury people use to decorate the room. When society has a certain degree of ownership of high-end mechanical clocks, there is a huge market for professional peripherals serving them.

   A slogan is the most seductive: ‘You don’t always let your Ferrari stop at the side of the road, do you?’ Treating your love form is even more the same. High-end watches require the perfect HOS, which is the ‘time treasure box’. Not only can the watch get a good rest in the house, but it can also be recharged (for real automatic winding) and work mentally the next day. The birth of the time treasure box was not the brainstorm of two German guys. As the introduction belongs, it has its huge historical background.

   So in 1995 in Germany, two childhood friends, Harald Buben and Christian Zorweg, who had graduated from the same university, studied law and business majors respectively. It is said that they have bright career prospects. But this is not the case. Highly mature business societies like Germany offer very few opportunities to young people. Just when the duo had no idea about their future, their common interests helped a lot. Buben and Zorweg both love watches. However, the two young men with entrepreneurial spirit and keen observation did not enter a certain watch school, but formed a company. Buben & Zorweg, a company that created ‘Time Boxes’. After two years of unremitting efforts, the first generation of time treasure boxes specially released for watch enthusiasts and collectors came into being. The two founders of the company are very happy. It combines professional technology and high-level appearance design. It is said that the technology of ELMA, a famous German school meter, is also used in its research and development and production.

   Twenty years later, Buben & Zorweg has evolved and developed, and a time treasure box with a high intelligence with a pause function (a 10-hour pause every 24 hours can avoid the wear of the watch’s automatic winding system) was born. One of the big guys named Timer Mover Grande Precision can accommodate 48 watches at the same time. The treasure box (precisely the cabinet) also comes with an extremely skilled Erwin Sattler clock in the center. At that time, it sold for 1.35 million yuan, and its value even surpassed most of the top luxury watches. Today the domestic selling price is close to 1.66 million yuan. At this year’s Basel show, B & Z also launched a special watch box in the shape of Iron Man. In short, we all need to find a real home.

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